Mainland China and Special Guests

After treating ourselves for the holidays we wrapped up things in Hong Kong and headed for Mainland China for a two-week tour of sightseeing. We underwent the painful process of getting visas while we were in HK (something we would NOT recommend) and headed to Shanghai with no idea what to expect.

We had been looking forward to getting to China for quite some time. Not just because of the sights, but also because Nolan’s Mom & Aunt decided to come meet us!!! We were excited to see them and to get to see a new part of the world with familiar faces.

Full account of experience is below and don't forgot to check out our photos!


Shanghai

Before meeting Mom & Aunt Nancy, the two of us headed to Shanghai for a quick two nights. We were greeted with severely poor weather due to torrential rains and fog. We barely saw the iconic skyline one sees in all the pictures.

We realized pretty fast though that Shanghai seemed to be an international foodie destination. We knew we would be in China for two weeks so we covered a lot of cuisines to fill our tanks: Canadian-style deli, Chinese lunch, Italian dinner, etc, etc. We also explored the French quarter of the city in the freezing rain, but we did not last very long…

The sheer size of Shanghai was something we definitely could not even describe. Home to over 24mm people it is sprawling to say the least and impossible to cover in two days. We spent most our time in the Bund and enjoyed our first taste of China, but the next stops truly made the trip for us…

 

Beijing – The City

We headed to China’s capital next and linked up with Mom & Aunt Nancy in the airport. We were so pumped to see them! We have been living out of our backpacks for a long time now and there is nothing better than seeing familiar faces! We were so happy to be with a few members of our family and get to spend the next 10 days with them discovering China.

Our first morning we hired a guide to take us to see the major sights in Beijing. We started at Tiananmen, toured the Forbidden City, had a traditional Chinese lunch (lots of dumplings!), saw the Summer Palace, drove by the Olympic Village and wrapped things up with a traditional tea house. It was a long day, but it was awesome! Seeing Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City was absolutely wild. The size and extravagance of the complex amazed us. We also were able to tack on a Chinese acrobatic performance before a Peking Duck dinner. We definitely slept well that night….

The next day the ladies did some shopping in the crazy “malls” that sell everything from fake handbags to every kind of tchotchke you can think of. Nolan smartly skipped that one. We then had a driver take us out to Great Wall where we would spend the next two nights.

 

The Wall

Everyone has seen countless pictures of The Great Wall of China, but nothing can prepare you for seeing it in person for the first time. We saw it driving to our hotel as one of the major interstates cuts right through. It is truly breathtaking to see the snake-like wall winding in all directions across the mountain range.

The thing we realized right away, which pictures cannot do justice, was the steep inclines. This wall was not built on flat sections AT ALL. It almost was as if they chose the steepest grades to build the thing on and to think they did it thousands of years ago is truly shocking.

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We stayed at a hotel near the wall that actually had its own section! That is the other thing we hadn’t realized: The Great Wall is not one continuous structure, it is broken up into various sections. That being said, these sections span over 13,000 miles!!!

We spent a full day exploring various sections of the wall such as the Badaling section, which is the best preserved and most complete, and it was breathtaking. It also happened to be one of the coldest and windiest days we have experienced since leaving home, but after climbing the steep steps for awhile, you warmed right up! It is magnificent on a clear day to see just how far the wall goes. It truly is a marvel that is beyond words.

Perhaps the best part of our trip, was getting to go to the section near the hotel one evening before sunset. We had the whole thing to ourselves and got to take it all in alone as the sun went down. It was truly an amazing experience.

We have seen some amazing architectural marvels since we have left, but this one was on a whole other level simply due to where they chose to build it. How they constructed this massive wall on the steep grades of the mountains is beyond us. This has to be on everyone’s bucket list!

 

Xi’An


We decided to take a two-hour flight to the city of Xi’an after Beijing primarily because this is where the famous terracotta warriors are. We had heard a ton about them and seen many pictures. Furthermore, we had a few people say they were not to be missed while in China. All that being said, we were a little apprehensive given the travel day just to get there.

The terracotta warriors surround the tomb of China’s first Emperor, Qin Shi Huang. They were made of clay and were buried around his tomb in order to “protect” him in the afterlife. Farmers discovered the soldiers in 1974 while digging a well and the excavation began. So far they have uncovered over 8,000 soldiers in addition to hundreds of horses, chariots and cavalry.

On our full day touring we headed right for the complex where the warriors stand and immediately we realized this trip was well worth it! It is hard to describe the scene when you first arrive at the main chamber. There are literally thousands of replica soldiers standing at attention right in front of you. To think these were made just to protect a tomb is beyond words!

The crazy thing about the entire experience is realizing these soldiers sit in one section surrounding Qin Shi Huang’s tomb. Scientists are still not sure what else is out there! The other crazy part is that every single soldier has a unique face and features. Amazing!!!

We were all blown away at the experience and when you combine that with the Great Wall, China was a massive success!! We spent the rest of our day checking out Xi’an’s other sights including the ancient city, the Wild Goose Pagoda and the crazy Muslim Quarter with its hundreds of food and souvenir stalls.

We were not at all sure what to expect when we headed to mainland China. We had a lot of mixed feelings about traveling there between the tough visa process, the strict policies and the tons of Chinese tourists we have met on our travels (not saying American ones are much better). That being said, the country is so rich in history it was remarkable to see it all up close and we are certainly glad we went.

Yes, of course there were parts we did not like and at times the people could be tough to handle. However, that is no different from any other place we visited. Would we rush to go back? Probably not if we are being honest. But, again it was totally worth doing if just to see the Great Wall, the Forbidden City and the Terracotta Army. We are so glad we went and the fact that we got to experience it all with our Mom and Aunt was super special.

Off to Japan for a new adventure, can’t wait to speak next week!

Holidays in Asia

A shorter blog today to catch everyone up on our holidays. It seems like ages ago now, but we are reminded of our holiday experience often because it was pretty much the last time we were warm! Just take a look at our photos from Singapore, Bali and Hong Kong and you can see for yourself.

We are currently in Japan, where we are in the midst of a winter wonderland and prior to Japan we were in China, which was freezing!! Seems like a long time ago since we were basking in the sun, but that is exactly what we did during our Christmas “break.” Aside from getting sun we did a whole lot of nothing. It was terrific to relax, catch up on sleep and read.

This will be short and sweet and then we will update you on our time in China next week, which was wild!

 

Singapore

After spending a solid five days on the beach in Krabi, Thailand we headed further south to check out Singapore for a few nights. The airport there sets a very high standard for the overall city. Everything was new, impeccably clean and super efficient. We were pretty blown away even as we got off the plane. Yes, we know Singapore has some of the oddest and strictest rules on the planet, but they work!

We had an absolute blast in Singapore and it easily has become one of our favorite cities in the world. It is modern, international, oh and clean! Furthermore, English is one of the main languages so it was nice to finally be able to communicate with everyone without a problem.The city itself is architecturally gorgeous and the climate is subtropical so we enjoyed checking out the incredible botanical gardens and wildlife right in the middle of the city. Furthermore, the food scene is amazing and we enjoyed some amazing food and drink while we were there.

We loved the look and feel of the city and could easily see ourselves living there. We realized long ago that cities are cities, but Singapore is one we think is definitely worth visiting!

Singapore 

Singapore 


Bali

Since we were sad to be away from home for Christmas, we had one goal in mind: to splurge on a nice getaway vacation. We accomplished this goal when we spent a full week in Bali for Christmas. We stayed at two different locations: Candidasa Beach and Ubud. Both were very different, but gave us a chance to recharge the batteries once again.

Candidasa Beach is on the eastern coast of Bali. Anyone who has read the news probably heard about the volcano, Agung, that had just erupted before Christmas. Well as luck would have it, we found ourselves spending Christmas on a beach right under Agung. Luckily it was back to sleep while we were there.

We spent our time at Candidasa Beach doing absolutely nothing and enjoyed a Balinese version of a Christmas dinner. While it certainly didn't feel like Christmas in the traditional sense, the staff at our resort made every effort to make us feel at home by playing Christmas tunes and wearing Santa hats around!

After Candi Beach we went to Ubud, which is a more central destination in Bali’s rainforest. Once again we had amazing accommodations thanks to a friend who works with Alila Hotels and we enjoyed every second of our time there. Highlights for us were cycling through the rice fields, watching the monkeys attempt to steal our breakfast and a traditional evening of Balinese dance.

All in all, we had a blast visiting Bali. It was technically their rainy season, but we didn’t mind one bit. We got lots of sun, lots of rest and sadly said goodbye to the warmth for a long while…

 

Hong Kong

We spent our New Year’s in Hong Kong and our first two nights opted to stay in the Conrad Hotel on the 59th floor overlooking Victoria Harbor. Holy view, it was awesome! This was by design, as we decided to spend our time ringing in 2018 with room service, bath robes and an insane view of the HK fireworks from the comforts of our room.

NYE Fireworks in HK

NYE Fireworks in HK


We stayed in Soho for the first two nights of 2018 and did a lot of sightseeing. We got to the Peak, visited the bird market, ate dumplings at the Jumbo Floating Restaurant, rode the Star Ferry and watched the light show from Kowloon. We also were able to catch up with some friends, eat amazing dim sum and enjoy this awesome city.

Nolan had been a few times prior, but it was Kirby’s first. HK is definitely an incredible city and very friendly to expats. Once again, the convenience of getting from their world class airport into town is insane. It makes our US airports seem sad….

From HK it was off to see mainland China, which ended up being an entirely different experience altogether. More on that next week and once again Happy 2018!!

3x in Thailand

It has been awhile since we last posted a blog. We have been on the go and in places that were not so easy to access the internet (we are looking at you China). We are actually in Japan at the moment touring around this amazing country, which we will get to soon. For now, we wanted to share a bit from our time in Thailand. Makes sense since we left the country almost four weeks ago now! 

We actually entered and exited Thailand on three different occasions (hence the title). This was pretty poor design on our part, but nonetheless we got a taste of the different areas of the country which are vastly different from one another. Hope you enjoy the blog, our favorite photos and we will speak soon!
 

Bangkok

Bangkok, Thailand was where we started our Southeast Asia tour way back in early November, which seems like years ago now! It took us nearly 24 hours to travel there from NYC. Neither of us had ever been to this part of the world so we had no idea what to expect.

We landed in the afternoon after an extremely long travel day and decided to get settled into our hotel and stretch our legs a bit. We took a walk through the city and ventured down a few side alleys to explore and HOLY CULTURE SHOCK! The new sights, smells and tastes were something we were definitely not fully prepared for. Keep in mind, at this point we had primarily toured the West so we knew were in for a whole different experience about 5 minutes after leaving our hotel.

After a much needed night's rest, we decided we just needed to embrace our new environment and go all in. So we took on Bangkok as best we could experiencing the street food, the famous Khao San Road (where yes, we ate a scorpion), the boats, the tuk-tuk’s, the temples and everything in between. When you are a little travel-weary and/or are having second thoughts this is the only way to go!

Bangkok as a city is pretty hectic, though we realized this would be the rule not the exception in Southeast Asia’s largest cities. We learned fast to embrace the smells (the good and the bad), avoid the “hustle” (everyone tries to sell you something) and to just smile and nod at every weird thing you see…and there is a lot of weird.

It took a few days to fully settle in and get comfortable in our new surroundings, but we are sure glad we did. The journey we have had the last two months has been insane and we have Bangkok to thank for sending us on our way.

 

Chiang Mai

By the time we got to Chiang Mai, we were seasoned travel vets of Southeast Asia. We had already been through Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos. However, since we were a little wide-eyed when we toured around Bangkok we were eager to experience a different part of Thailand and dive in even further.

One of Thailand’s northern cities, Chiang Mai has a vastly different feel from Bangkok. It is pretty quiet, slower-paced and motorbikes actually stop for you when you cross the streets. Furthermore, there is a lot of countryside and mountainous regions that surround the city, which made this part of the world truly beautiful.

We spent our time seeing temples and eating a LOT of Thai food. The highlight though, was spending a full day out at an elephant sanctuary. We got picked up at our hotel and on the way to sanctuary learned all about elephant abuse and exploitation, which at times was hard to watch. The sanctuaries in Northern Thailand help to rehabilitate abused elephants and give them a chance at a second life, even though they will never be able to truly live in the wild again.

We had a blast spending time with the elephants. We got to feed them, hike through the jungle with them and at the end of the day go swimming them them. It was awesome! We learned that elephants eat a TON, are super friendly and are WAY stronger than we ever imagined, particularly in their trunks. But most importantly, we got to see how happy these animals were at the second chance they have been given. These creatures really do have a soul and we witnessed that first hand (just look at the pic of that female smiling at Kirby's hug below)! It was insanely rewarding for us and we would highly recommend a similar experience to anyone.

 

Krabi

Our last stop in Thailand was a good one as we got to spend five nights at one of Thailand’s most beautiful beaches in the south. We stayed in Krabi, which is right next to Phuket and within striking distance of some of Thailand’s most beautiful islands such as Hong Island, Ko Lanta and Ko Phi Phi.

When we arrived in Krabi we had just finished our 10-day whirlwind through Myanmar so we were ready for some rest and we sure got it! For about four days we did absolutely nothing. We sat by the pool, slept and caught up on reading. We also got to sample some new variations of Thai food, which we realized got a lot spicier as we travelled further south!

One of the funny parts about being here in late December was that everyone was pumping the Christmas tunes! Anywhere we went it seems like we were surrounded by the Christmas classics. It made us feel at home, but at the same time was a little strange gearing up for the holidays on a Thai beach...

For our big excursion day, we hired a boat to take us around the islands. Particularly, we spent time on Poda, Chicken and Hong Islands. It was beautiful! It reminded us a lot of a less-crowded Halong Bay with the giant limestone cliffs, but here we felt a lot more comfortable swimming (i.e., the water was clean)! We were able to enjoy the beaches we visited and even got some snorkeling in. Quite an amazing part of the world for sure.

Overall, we had a blast visiting Thailand. The cool part about this country is how different it is from top to bottom. It almost felt like we had visited three different countries! The people, the food and the landscapes were all different from one another. But overall, everyone could not have been nicer to us and made us feel welcome no matter where we were.

Until next time Thailand!

Myanmar

We have been out of touch the past few days for no other reason than the fact we were spending our Christmas in Bali! We chose to do absolutely nothing but lie by the beach, read and sleep. It has been incredible and was much needed after traveling like crazy through SE Asia for a month and a half. We just put together our blog from our time in Myanmar, as well as our photos. Enjoy!
 

We were torn…

Before we get into our time spent in Myanmar, we should take a moment to recognize the situation going on in the country right now. Just do a google news search for “Myanmar” and you can read all about it. We won’t get into specifics, but essentially there are widespread reports of ethnic cleansing by the Myanmar Army against the Rohingya people.

We were very torn on whether or not we should travel to a country that has let this happen, no matter what the circumstances are. Furthermore, we were conflcted as to whether we wanted to spend our dollars supporting a government who appears to not be addressing it. No doubt, it is a very touchy subject and we were very unsure of what to do.

At the end of the day and after a TON of research, we decided to go. We ultimately made that decision because we knew our dollars would have way more of an impact for the lives of those we met while traveling: taxi drivers, guides, restaurateurs, small business owners etc. Once we got on the ground we were certainly glad we made this decision. We never felt unsafe, or even close to anything dangerous, but it was always on our minds as we made our way through the country. Even after 10 days there, we still have no clearer picture on what is really going on in certain parts of Myanmar. We did notice though, that everyone on the ground seemed to help us go out of our way to NOT support the government all while saying the Western news outlets are “not accurate” in their reporting of the crisis...interesting.

Nonetheless, we made our own decision to travel there based purely on traveling to a beautiful country. It was not an easy one to make, but if anyone ever thinks about traveling there, do some research and decide for yourself. Not sure if there is a right or wrong answer and either way it is a tough situation. Here is a quick account of our time in the country (politics aside):
 

Mandalay

We started our journey with two nights in Mandalay, which is a city in pretty much smack in Myanmar’s center. We chose Mandalay first because: a) it is one of the main ports of entry into the country and b) because we knew we could drive from there to our next destination, Bagan. This was welcome so that we did not have to take a train, plain or boat (which is also possible).

We hired a driver for 3 days for $130! His name was “Win” and he picked us up at the airport and whisked us to our hotel, before recommending to us a place to have dinner (a local joint with Myanmar-style BBQ and beer and a LOT of looks from the other patrons). The next day he took us all around the city seeing a Buddhist Monastery, the Royal Palace, various temples and the top-spot in Mandalay: The U Bein bridge. This bridge is the largest teak wood bridge in the world and easily attracts the most visitors.

We walked the bridge mid-morning and would return for sunset, which was probably the best part of our time in Mandalay. We hired a rowboat to take us out on the water and experience the bridge as the sun was going down. Due to a lot of cloud cover we did not get to experience it in its full glory, though it was still fun to watch the sky change and watch all the different types of people using the bridge including monks, cyclists and tourists.

U Bein Bridge at sunset

U Bein Bridge at sunset

It was a quick stop by our standards, but two nights was about right to see and experience Mandalay.
 


Bagan

We woke up early, had coffee and then Win took us on the four-hour drive to Bagan, which was a bit harrowing (including driving through a river, in his sedan). We stopped along the way for lunch where Win gushed that we had to try “the best pizza in all of Myanmar." We did, it was good, but it was not pizza like we are used to. He also spent much of the drive describing how amazed we would be at all the temples in Bagan and boy was he right!

Win also spent a lot of time describing the political situation in Myanmar and where all the tax dollars went that were collected from tourists. Answer: no one really knows. We liked Win and appreciated his knowledge. We wished he could have stayed with us the entire time!

Once we got to Bagan we learned the best way to get around was by electric scooter. It was basically a moped without a gas engine. We ventured out on our first night just to check things out and found a temple that had stairs we could climb to get a view and we gasped. Hundreds upon hundreds of temples were scattered in front of us; words simply cannot describe it.

Bagan Temples

Bagan Temples

Bagan reminded us a lot of being in Africa. The landscape, climate and vegetation is similar, but instead of animals you see temples. Over our three days we operated like we would have on safari as well: getting up before sunrise, heading out to explore, returning for breakfast, napping through lunch and heading out again for sunset and nightfall. Of course the only issue with our specific Bagan adventure was that the weather was horrible! Rain and cloud cover prohibited any view of the sun whatsoever until (surprise surprise) our last morning.

The morning before we were to leave we got what we had seen in all the internet photos: an iconic sunrise over the vast fields of temples, golden skies and hot air balloons! Yes, one of the coolest things about Bagan is about 20 or so balloons take flight for sunrise and slowly glide over the complex. Seeing the mist rise over the temples and the beautiful morning sky littered with hot air balloons was incredible and something we will never forget. This experience alone made it into our top-10 as we reflected later.

Aside from the golden hours, just driving on the scooter through the open plains of temples is incredible. Oftentimes, we would come across a temple and be able to explore the hidden entrances, tunnels and corridors with no one else around! It really is a very cool place and makes the trip to Myanmar worth it if this were your only stop!

 

Inle Lake

From Bagan we took our first domestic flight to the Inle Lake area of Myanmar. Inle Lake is one of the largest lakes in Myanmar and is a totally different landscape and a way of life for all the locals that surround it. Floating villages, floating markets and fishing is the name of the game in this part of the country. In fact, our hotel was primarily on stilts suspended on a small section of the lake.

We used most of our days here to relax by the first pool we had seen in months and enjoy the local food. However, we spent one day with a guide who took us all around the lake on his long boat. We experienced a true local morning market, a few temples, various businesses including a silk business, a silver business and a tobacco business and the floating gardens. However, we realized these gardens are floating but cannot support the weight of humans, take our word for it…

However, the coolest part about the lake was getting to watch the local fisherman. The men use row boats and nets to do their job, but it is the way they work that is truly insane. The fisherman row their boats using a single leg, which frees their hands to work the nets. The best way to describe the action is to imagine a person performing ballet on water. The balance, strength and skill required truly make it an art form. Furthermore, watching them was the best display of the lifeblood this lake provides for those who live around it.

Inle Fisherman

Inle Fisherman

Between Bagan and Inle, we felt our decision to visit Myanmar was fully justified and the memories would stick with us for quite some time!

 

Yangon

We ended with one night in Yangon, one of Myanmar’s largest cities. To be honest, we thought we were spending two nights here but realized we messed up our departure flight date so instead got one night. It wasn’t the end of the world since we were smoked from the travel and were off to spend five nights on the Thai beaches…

Nonetheless, we spent our day visiting the main attraction in Yangon: The Shwedagon Pagoda. This giant gilded Pagoda is a major religious site in Myanmar and was insane to see. It was easily the largest Pagoda we had visited and we watched in awe as people from all over came to visit, pray and spend time at the site. The pagoda is so large that it graces Yangon’s skyline, particularly at night when it is lit up and can be seen for miles.

Shwedagon Pagoda

Shwedagon Pagoda

We also spent some time walking through Yangon’s night market and enjoying our final meal before heading out to southern Thailand.

 

All in all, Myanmar was incredible. The people were insanely friendly, the culture was so interesting, the food was amazing and the diversity between the different areas of the country is amazing. We sincerely hope that the political issues can be resolved and if atrocities against humanity is indeed occurring, those responsible are held as such. We also hope that the country is able to keep protecting the beauty and tranquility as tourists continue to flock to the country (particularly the Temples of Bagan).

We would highly recommend spending 10 days in Myanmar. This place is definitely guide-worthy and we will post one at some point. But in the meantime, please enjoy our photo gallery and Happy Holidays!!

Luang Prabang, Laos

We spent a short three nights in Luang Prabang, Laos. We had heard from some people it was a great town to visit and it has easily become one of our favorite places so far on our travels. The town itself is a Unesco World Heritage and to quote Wikipedia, "It was listed in 1995 for unique and 'remarkably' well preserved architectural, religious and cultural heritage, a blend of the rural and urban developments over several centuries, including the French Colonial influences during the 19th and 20th centuries." Read on and check out our gallery here.

Luang Prabang was a quick 50-minute flight from Hanoi, but it could not have been further away from the craziness of Vietnam. Situated right on the Mekong and Nam Khan Rivers, the town was calm, peaceful and for the first time since we arrived in SE Asia people actually stopped for us in crosswalks. Furthermore, you could immediately feel the kindness of the people and the rich heritage they cherish.

We will highlight our top three favorite parts about Luang Prabang and can definitely say we wish we had spent more time here. If anyone is in the region we would highly recommend visiting, it is well worth it!
 

# 1 – The Food

Laotian cuisine is delicious and the staple is sticky rice. In fact, a common meal for locals is to eat sticky rice with their hands and dip it in various sauces. We had sticky rice with just about everything we ate and we dove right in with our hands. We also learned that since most people eat with their hands, they are very hygenic and take great care in the cleanliness of their bodies and how their food is prepared  (again, a big change of pace).

Furthermore, as most of you know, we literally cannot survive without coffee. Laos had some of the best coffee we have sampled. They feature a slightly sweeter version of a cold brew that is espresso-based. It made us feel right at home and was the perfect way to start each day in the heat of Laos!
 

# 2 – The Waterfalls

We had heard a lot about Laos’ famous waterfalls in Luang Prabang: Kuang Si and Tad Se Falls. We had also done our research and seen a ton of gorgeous pictures of the falls. However, nothing could prepare us for experiencing them in person. The gorgeous teal blue water, the series of pools and the fact we could swim pretty much wherever we wanted. It was awesome!

We opted to do Kuang Si Falls and made a day of it because it was a bit far out of town. Furthermore, we had heard about the elephant riding park in Tad Se and we didn’t want to support it. Kuang Si was incredible and the main falls in the back towered at least 10 stories into the jungle canopy. It was beautiful and easily one of the most amazing falls we have ever seen.

Kuang Si Falls

Kuang Si Falls


 

# 3 – The Heritage

The Laotian people were so kind to us and welcomed us with open arms. We could also tell they are very proud of their culture and their town. We saw it everyday, but perhaps the most polarizing was the daily alms giving ritual. Every morning, hundreds of monks emerge from the various monasteries and walk the streets of Laung Prabang. The local residents line the streets and offer the monks their daily meals, which typically consist of sticky rice, fruits and vegetables.

We must take a moment to address the fact that this ritual has been around for centuries and is quite sacred. Yet, in this modern day a lot of tourists choose to be awful. We heard horror stories of people going to great efforts to shove cameras in the monks faces and just get in the way. Furthermore, many hotels offer "alms packages" so tourists can take part in the ritual themselves. This is entirely against the point as the ritual is supposed to be about giving one's time, preparing a meal yourself and making a sacrifice to give. 

We definitely did not want to be "those people" so opted to stay on a quiet side street and watch from a safe distance. Luckily there were no other tourists around and we got to observe a few villagers waiting patiently to give their rice to the monks who walked by. After the giving, the monks surround the locals and chanted a blessing. It was very cool to see and experience. We could see and feel how deeply the Laotian people cared for one another, visitors and their traditions. It just made us feel right at home! 

 

*BONUS*- THE NIGHT MARKET

Although we have seen quite a few night markets in SE Asia, the one in Luang Prabang was our favorite so far (or really just Kirby's favorite, since Nolan doesn't particularly enjoy shopping). Contrary to other night markets we have been to, the vendors in Luang Prabang were laid back and didn't pressure you to buy anything, allowing you to "window shop" without feeling like you would be hassled. And even though we only bought a few pairs of local clothing (fun colored pants!) due to space issues in our backpacks, Kirby said she would come back someday with a large empty suitcase to fill :) 

Luang Prabang Night Market

Luang Prabang Night Market

Again, a quick blog and a few photos truly cannot do Laung Prabang justice. One just needs to experience it to fully understand. Sadly, Laos was a quick stop for us when we planned this adventure. That was a mistake and we could easily see ourselves visiting again!

Vietnam

The second country on our SE Asia tour was Vietnam and we had quite an array of experiences! The country is so diverse, we really had no idea. Read on to find out how we fared:


Hoi An

Our first stop in Vietnam was the small coastal town of Hoi An. This place has become one of our favorite destinations thus far. The town was quiet, the people were friendly and walking through the old part of town at night was kind of magical. The streets are covered in colorful lanterns and in the river that ran through town, you would often see lanterns floating with the current. It was so pretty.

This was the perfect place to decompress after temple-hopping in Cambodia. Even though it pretty much poured the entire time we were there (in fact the river even overflowed into part of the town at one point), we loved this town. Perhaps it was the peace and quiet or perhaps it was because we were able to find an awesome wine bar that also had killer food. If you find yourself there check out this place: White Marble Wine Bar & Restaurant.

While the weather did not permit us to head to the beach, Hoi An is surrounded by some of Vietnam’s most beautiful beaches that stretch the coast between the town itself and Da Nang. As we would soon find out, the big cities in Vietnam are madness, so we would highly recommend Hoi An as a breath of fresh air while in the country!
 

Sapa

After Hoi An we flew to Hanoi and then took a 5+ hour bus ride to the tiny mountain town of Sapa. If you have ever seen a picture of sprawling hills covered in rice paddies, you are likely looking at a picture of Sapa. This place is still truly stuck in time. Yes the actual “city” of Sapa has some chain hotels nowadays, but to get to the actual villages further up the mountain requires quite a trek.

We were feeling adventurous, so rather than stay in a posh hotel in the town center, we decided to do a homestay with a local family in one of the villages. It was pretty wild. As luck would have it, the weather was freezing the entire time we were there (average temp around 40 degrees Fahrenheit) and was accompanied by a nice driving rain 90% of the time. Add in the fact that our homestay did not have heat, we had a long three nights up in the mountain. Nonetheless, we made the most of it exploring the endless hills of paddies, sampling the local fare and making friends with our host family.

According to the locals, the best time to visit Sapa is in late August when the rice shoots are fully grown and the weather is perfect. Just do a google image search of “Sapa” and you likely will find amazing pictures taken during this time. We on the other hand, got the opposite. However, we are glad we got to experience this part of the world as the locals do and it is a few days neither one of us will forget for a very long time. Though next time, we will shoot for late August…


Hanoi

After Sapa we headed into the capital city of Hanoi and talk about the other end of the spectrum! Hanoi is home to 7 million people and over 5 million motorbikes. We learned pretty fast that walking through town will test your nerves. There are basically no traffic rules, everyone has the right of way so crossing the street is a lesson in confidence and prayer. This also made us feel way less bad about missing Saigon, that is home to 8.5mm people and 7.5mm motorbikes!!!

The cool thing though, was that on our first night in Hanoi we caught the Sunday night market where the city closes off a lot of main streets and opens them to pedestrians who play live music, sing karaoke and even have dancing circles. It was a lot of fun! We also enjoyed a few local beers in Hanoi’s famous “beer corner.”

Aside from the level of craziness, the other downside about Hanoi is the pollution! We have never experienced pollution like that and the city is considered one of the most polluted in the world. It gave us memories of being in Yosemite with the wild fires, but this was worse because what was causing our throats to hurt was smog.

We are glad we got to experience the city, but two nights was plenty for us!


Halong Bay

This was probably the stop we were looking forward to the most as Halong Bay had been our bucket list for quite some time. The iconic bay features thousands of limestone “islands” that are scattered in all kinds of shapes and sizes throughout the turquoise bay. We opted to do a three day/ two night cruise in the bay, which was a splurge but was perhaps the best way to experience it.

Before we get to the good, let’s address the bad: the place is mad touristy. Due to government regulations, the area of the bay open to tourists has shrunk dramatically. Furthermore, there are hundreds of boat companies offering extremely similar tour itineraries. What this amounts to is a complete cluster of boats, pollution, and mobs of people. It was everything but relaxing, particularly because the companies shuttle you from one thing to the next so you can maximize your time (most folks only do a single night or a day trip). You also learn pretty fast that the regulations clearly do not cover people throwing things in the water, boat exhausts or any really any major safety precautions. Kind of sad to see, but there really is no other option if you want to see the bay while in Vietnam…

Now to the good: the place is beautiful. Once you remove yourself from the madness, the bay itself is stunning. The endless islands of limestone are quite a sight to see. Luckily for us, because we opted for the extra night we got to explore some less crowded areas of the bay and it was gorgeous. Furthermore, we were extremely surprised at how nice our accommodations were on the boat and the food was terrific! We met some nice friends on the boat, enjoyed cocktails on the deck at night and took in the various sights and experiences that the bay has to offer including kayaking, caving and sampling the local fare.

While we aren’t entirely sure we would do it again, we were so glad we got to lay eyes on this magical place. We heard rumors that the Vietnamese government may soon ban overnight cruises. We can only imagine what this would do if every tourist had to do a day-trip so we were glad we got to spend a few nights out there while we could. Yes it is touristy, yes it is a cluster, but the moments when you find some peace and quiet in front of those views make it all worth the trip….

 

We have to say, we were quite surprised by Vietnam. We had no idea that had such diverse landscapes and so many different activities to do. Furthermore, we had heard that some of the local people still had ill-feelings towards Americans from the war. We did not experience this at all! The people we met could not have been more gracious to us and they were some of the bests hosts we have encountered on all of our travels thus far. We loved spending nearly two weeks here and easily could have spent more.

Speak soon from our next destination, Laos!

First stop in SE Asia: Cambodia!

Ahh where to begin?! Well, we technically started our latest adventure in Thailand. We landed in SE Asia over two weeks ago and started by spending three nights in Bangkok to “get acclimated” and adjust to life on the other side of the world. We have been traveling now for nearly 9 months and SE Asia is on a whole other level!!

Our first 24-hours we were in complete culture shock. In fact, we weren’t sure how long we would last over here. However, we just decided to dive right in and we are sure glad we did. So far we have been to Bangkok (Thailand), Siem Reap (Cambodia), Hoi An, Sapa and Hanoi (Vietnam). But today, we our dedicating our post to our first real stop: Cambodia. Enjoy!
 

Cambodia

Cambodia was our first full country destination in Southeast Asia and it was truly incredible. If you follow our Instagram stories, you would have seen that we had quite the journey getting from Bangkok to Siem Reap. If not, the bullet points include a 9-hour bus ride, a broken bus, walking over the Cambodian border on foot, a new bus with bunk beds and eventually a tuk-tuk ride in the dark to our Airbnb in Siem Reap. Apparently, every single day is an adventure over here…

Siem Reap is a city located in the heart of Cambodia and is the home base for exploring the UNESCO World Heritage site that contains the world’s largest religious monument: Angkor Wat (some even consider it a Wonder of the World). This had been on our bucket list for some time and it did not disappoint! Over the next few days we would get our money’s worth exploring the temples, but more on that in a minute.

Before we get to the temples, we need to take a moment to discuss Siem Reap itself because it is like no other place we have ever been. The town was originally home to the Khmer Empire (5th-12th Century BC) and is now a major tourist destination due to it being the gateway to the Angkor Complex. In fact, it is said 50% of Cambodia's tourists come through Siem Reap every year.

Walking through town now makes you feel like you are in a third world country: endless mobs of mopeds, dirt roads, stray dogs and all kinds of strange sights and smells. However, pop into a nice looking coffee shop and you feel like you are on Fifth Avenue. The dichotomy is wild! Oddly enough, we never felt unsafe or remotely worried walking around. The people were incredible, the food was awesome and even though it’s a total cluster, we felt oddly comfortable. But yes, walking around we would often look at each other and wonder, “where the heck are we?!”

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Siem Reap, Cambodia

On our first morning we woke up at 4:30am and headed for Angkor Wat. We bought our tickets and headed to the site itself to catch the sunrise over the temple and…HOLY PEOPLE! If you have ever been to Angkor Wat for sunrise you know what we are talking about. Everyone is instructed to do this so at 5am there are hundreds upon hundreds of people vying for space to capture that nice sunrise shot.

People waiting for sunrise

People waiting for sunrise

Pro tip: if you want to see sunrise at Angkor Wat, buy your tickets the night before. This way, you can show up to the site itself right when it opens at 5am and get in early. Otherwise, you are looking at 5:30am best case and at this point it’s a lost cause to get front and center (we should know)…

We made the most of it and settled on the lesser-packed right pond and ended up with some different, yet beautiful shots of the light behind the temple. We then spent the next few hours walking through and around the temple itself, taking in the site. It was magnificent and was truly hard to imagine how something like that could have been almost a thousand years ago in the middle of the jungle.

Angkor Wat in the morning light

Angkor Wat in the morning light

Over the next few days we explored 12 of the temples within the giant complex and while we won’t cover them all, here were our top three:

1. Angkor Wat: just iconic, massive and awe inspiring. One of those things you see and read so much about that lived up to the hype when seeing it in person.

2. Banteay Srei: 10-century temple located some 45 minutes north of Siem Reap and yet worth the ride. The most preserved in the complex; it features insanely ornate carvings, statues and monuments.

3. Bayon: very near to Angkor Wat and features many tall monuments with carved faces. Very cool to see them up close and imagine what they looked like back in the day.

Aside from temple hopping, we took a day to explore the Kampong Phluk floating village and this was another experience in itself. To see how these people live their lives in the middle of the water with nothing around was truly remarkable. We watched as the villagers collected fish, traveled exclusively by boat and worked on their houses floating on the water. Incredibly eye-opening. 

The last night in Siem Reap we went to Pub Street, which was wild...from the people, to the smells, to the music...it was sensory overload!! But totally a necessary experience if you are ever in the area!

Pub Street craziness

Pub Street craziness

The other thing about Cambodia is all the “in between” sights. Getting from one place to another is a total adventure. We traveled primarily by tuk-tuk and often found ourselves heading down dirt roads, through tiny villages and were just in awe at all the sights. Furthermore, getting to see and experience how people live on a day-to-day basis in this part of the world was amazing. You forget that Cambodia is still very much a third world country and experiencing the everyday life truly makes you appreciate all we have back home.

A typical commute

A typical commute

The sights were amazing of course, but some of our favorite moments thus far have been in experiencing these amazing cultures in person. It is a wild place and like nothing we have encountered so far. We can only imagine what the next few weeks has in store for us so stay tuned!

November 2017 Update

Hello hello everyone.

A quick update to all ten of you who read this blog: we spent the last few weeks back at home in Maryland to recharge our batteries, catch up on some work and most importantly spend time with our family to meet our first niece Harley! She was born a few days ago and is absolutely beautiful!

It was great to get spend time with our family and friends during this special time, but it seems like every time we stop back at home it gets harder and harder to get motivated to continue this crazy journey. We can’t exactly explain what it is, but perhaps it is just the comforts of being home. We have felt it a few times in the past six months, but this time in particular it was the hardest to “get back out there.”

We ultimately decided that shock therapy would be the best way to shake us out of our funk! So, we just landed in Thailand on a one-way ticket and a plan to travel until we literally cannot stand it anymore or afford it, whichever comes first. Assuming we last more than a few days we have a very ambitious plan for the next few months and we will be covering a LOT of ground.

As always, we will take it one day at a time and see “where we land” (just terrible, but had to do it at least once). Stay tuned for photos and blog posts from these far-away lands and thanks to everyone for your continued love and support!

~Nolan & Kirby

Texas & "The South"

Feels like forever since we last posted! The final leg of our US Road Trip took us through our southern states and it was a blast! Without further ado, here is what we tackled:


Dallas, Texas

Texas was our gateway to the south and when we started driving in from Colorado we realized one thing: Texas is massive! The state itself is so large that in most cases driving from city to city will eat up most of your day. We decided to spend a quick night in Dallas to break up our drive, because driving all the way to Houston from Colorado would have taken forever!

When we pulled into Dallas we started to understand why they say, “everything is bigger in Texas.” The highways themselves can prove that fact. Tons of lanes, tons of overpasses and tons going on. It was quite a change from where we had come from! Just look at the pictures of the famous rest stop "Bucees" and you can see it's go big or go home in Texas:

Our last night camping in Colorado was cold and wet, so the second we arrived in Dallas we had a hot shower and then treated ourselves to a big Texas steak dinner, which was awesome!  We crashed, recharged and woke up early to explore a bit of the city and of course, grab some coffee.
 

Waco, Texas

Full disclosure: one of our guilty pleasures is HGTV and one of our favorite shows is “Fixer Upper” starring Chip & Joanna Gaines. The Gaines’ happen to be from Waco and so the opportunity to check it out on our way to Houston was not lost on us.

We drove an hour south and got our second coffee of the day in the middle of Waco and then headed out to the Magnolia Silos that the Gaines’ built. The Magnolia Silos feature a full-fledged home goods store, a bakery, various areas where you can hang out and play lawn games and a huge bank of food trucks. It was mobbed with tourists just like us, but we fought our way into the complex and enjoyed lunch at one of the trucks. It was amazing to see what this couple built for Waco. People had clearly come from all over to see the silos (we were among them). Very cool to see in person, but now we can totally get why the family no longer wants to be featured on TV…

Houston, Texas

From Waco we headed into Houston where we were once again greeted with the familiar 8-lane highways and giant overpasses. In Houston, we were staying with our very good friends Annie & Taylor who live in the Montrose part of the city. It was terrific: cute houses on quiet streets and tons of great bars and restaurants within walking distance. This is our idea of city living!

We spent the weekend catching up and getting to see various parts of Houston. Considering Hurricane Harvey had wreaked havoc on this city just weeks before, it was amazing to see how good the city looked. We definitely drove down some streets that got hit very hard, but the people were out rebuilding and keeping their heads up. It was good to see.

We really did love Houston and getting to spend time with great friends. The city is so diverse and has a lot to offer. We had some amazing meals, some amazing coffee (important) and enjoyed the ease of living. Perhaps it will make it on our list of places we could live…


Austin, Texas

After saying goodbye to Annie & Taylor, we backtracked and headed to Austin. The reason for the poor logistics was the fact that our favorite band (Wilco) was playing at the University of Texas on a Sunday night. Luckily, we had some friends who agreed to take us in for a few nights so we could see the show and explore some of Austin.

Our friends Jon & Nancy live in a gorgeous home in the Austin suburbs and were so nice to have us. Jon & Nolan worked together in NYC years ago and it is amazing how long some of those work friendships can last. Jon & Nancy now have a beautiful family and it was great to spend a few days with them.

We caught our concert on Sunday night and then on Monday morning got super lucky and caught the band on their way out of town while we were having coffee. Nolan was in heaven! He got to meet one of his guitar idols, Nels Cline, and watched the band all pile into their giant bus as it rolled off to the next show. Woohoo! We then spent the rest of the day exploring the various neighborhoods of Austin and can totally get why people love this town. It reminded us a bit of Portland, but was cleaner and so much more Texas.

On our second and final night Jon & Nancy took us to the "Salt Lick", a famous Austin BBQ place outside of the city. Holy meat! Just have a look at the fire pit and you will see what we were dealing with. Once again, everything is bigger in Texas. Awesome food, awesome people and was a great way to spend our last night in the Lonestar State.
 

New Orleans, Louisiana

From Austin we made the llllong drive across the state of Texas once again and eventually into Louisiana. We were on our way to see one of Nolan’s lifelong friends and his wife who live in New Orleans. Pike & Celie have a beautiful home out near Audubon Park and now have a family of their own. It is always terrific to see them!

We explored this amazing city for two days, checking out the French Quarter, strolling down Bourbon Street and getting to see all the places where Nolan had partied way too hard years ago at various bachelor parties and the 2012 Super Bowl weekend. Bourbon Street looks a lot different at noon on a Wednesday….We also checked off the boxes when it came to food & drink: a hurricane, a Po’ Boy and of course a burrito at Felipe’s Taquiera (where Pike works).

New Orleans is always a great visit, but the best part for us was getting to catch up with our great friends. We had an amazing dinner one night with Pike, Celie and her sisters Sibyl and Courtney. We even got to see Celie’s parents, which was a treat. True southern hospitality!

On our last morning, Nolan got a particularly awesome experience when Pike took him up in his plane. Our friend Pike has worked hard over the years to become a very proficient pilot and now even owns his own plane! The two got to spend the morning flying around New Orleans and seeing the city from above, which was awesome! Being in NOLA just reminded us how blessed we are to have such amazing friends scattered all around our awesome country.
 

Savannah, Georgia

From New Orleans we decided to make yet another long drive to Savannah, Georgia. We stayed three nights in a downtown hotel and absolutely fell in love with this city. Tons of gorgeous oak trees with Spanish moss hanging down from them, lots of town squares and so much character!

Over our three days we explored the various town squares, went to the Bonaventure Cemetery and took some photos inside Fosyth Park. We also had some awesome food, including some of the best fried chicken we have ever tasted at Sisters of the New South!

Between the trees, the southern architecture and the horse carriages, this town really does feel like it is stuck in time. You also get the sense that it may or may not be haunted. Whatever it was, we were into it! One of our favorites thus far…

 

Charleston, South Carolina

Charleston is easily another city where we can see ourselves someday. It has the similar character of Savannah with the added benefits of being a college town (College of Charleston) and having various beaches within a few minutes in the car.

We spent three nights here and stayed at the ever-convenient Francis Marion hotel, which sits right on King Street. If you have ever been to Charleston, you know King Street. It essentially runs right through town and is littered with amazing bars and restaurants and is usually the center of the action.

We explored Charleston proper and also took a day trip (20 minutes) out to the Isle of Palms and Sullivan’s. It is hard to believe you can live in a city and have a quick 20-minute drive to what look like untouched private beaches. We also caught up with a few of Nolan’s ex-work friends who live in town. Nolan’s friend Colin even picked us up in his golf cart to take us to dinner!!

Charleston is kind of like heaven on earth. For us, it checks a lot of boxes: great weather, great food, great people, on the water, beautiful beaches, can drive around on golf carts, etc, etc. It’s really hard not to fall in love with this town. It will get a hard look for us someday when we go to settle down…
 

Atlanta, Georgia

We wrapped up our tour of the south in Atlanta, Georgia. We stayed our first night with our friends Cam & Rebecca in the Virginia Highland part of the city. Cam and Nolan had worked together in NYC and they had since moved from the big apple to Atlanta. It was quite a change pulling up to their big house versus the last time we saw them in their Upper West Side apartment! Nonetheless, it was great catching up with them!

From there we headed to Buckhead to check into the swanky Ritz Carlton hotel for a weekend of wedding festivities for our friends Jon & Olivia. Luckily, our parents shipped us our adult clothes and Nolan treated himself to a haircut and beard trim, while Kirby enjoyed a day at the salon. It was necessary.
 

Jon and Olivia

Jon and Olivia

We had a blast spending the weekend in Atlanta in honor of Jon & Liv, but once the festivities ended we knew we were ready to get home. So, we headed straight back to Maryland from Atlanta, which ended up being a nearly 11 hour drive. It was worth it though to get back, into our own bed and prepare for the next leg of our journey.

Stay tuned!

 

 

Quick Trip Through Colorado

We followed the Colorado River essentially all the way from Moab into Denver. It was a beautiful drive that took us past all the major ski resorts in Colorado. The drive was especially cool because the trees were all changing colors and snow had begun up in the mountains. In multiple spots we had a colorful display of trees leading up to snow-capped peaks. It really was gorgeous.

Those trees!

Those trees!

We had originally wanted to spend a few nights in Rocky Mountain National Park. However, due to our slower schedule through some parts we were getting tight on time. We had promised some friends we would meet them in Houston, TX and had to get south for a wedding in Atlanta, GA. We still had a lot of ground to cover so sadly drove through Colorado rather quick.


Denver

Our first official stop was Denver, Colorado. Neither of us had ever actually set foot there other than the airport. The great news for us was that our good friend Laura Sealau had just moved into a beautiful new townhouse in Denver’s West Colfax neighborhood. She invited us to stay with her (and her cat Artie) for a few nights, which was incredible.

We are pretty sure by the time we arrived we had not showered in 10 days, but thankfully Laura was not home when we got there, so we were able to clean ourselves up before she arrived. Over the next few days we were able to catch up with Laura, drive around Denver and do a little catching up on emails, etc. Since Denver is an incredibly accessible city, it was easy to jump in the car and explore the different neighborhoods and the downtown area easily.

We loved the fact that Tacomas and Jeeps outnumbered BMW’s and Mercedes. We could tell immediately that this city is built for those who love the outdoors. We loved Denver immensely. Awesome restaurants, great people and so much to do! It will make the forever list for sure…
 

Sand Dunes

After a quick stay in Denver we headed south through Colorado Springs to Great Sand Dunes National Park. We used this as a stopping point before heading down into Texas. The park itself is 132.4 square miles and is known for its giant sand dunes that sit at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Naturally, the day we arrived it was cold and pouring rain.

Cold, rain and lots of sand

Cold, rain and lots of sand

After we found a campsite we headed to the dunes in the Jeep and drove the primitive Medano Pass Road for awhile to get an up close and personal view. The sand dunes are enormous! On a normal day, you are able to hike the dunes and get a sprawling view of the park, however on this day it was not to be. The wind and rain would have made it pretty terrible, so we decided to just admire from the viewpoints.

Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado

Great Sand Dunes National Park, Colorado

We spent the night in the Jeep since the weather was not great for setting up camp and decided to get an early start on our way to Texas.

Sadly, we were only in Colorado for a total of three nights even though we essentially drove the entire state! However, since Denver is so easy to get to we know we will be back. With so many fun things to do and so many ski mountains in such a close proximity it is an awesome place to visit from the East Coast.

The Many Parks of Utah

There is simply not enough we can say about the state of Utah. It has easily become one of our favorite states in the US! Nolan has grown up skiing in Utah, but getting to explore the southern parts of the state revealed a whole new world. There is just so much diversity in the landscape, sights and activities that it has to be on anyone’s list if they want to properly explore the US. Here is the full rundown of our time there:


Zion National Park

Zion is simply incredible. We were quite discouraged when we first arrived though coming from the Grand Canyon. The main road of the park is not very long and because of this, it tends to get insanely crowded. Cars are not allowed up the main canyon in Zion (you need to take a park tram) so where we came in, the park was flooded with tourists trying to take pictures on the side of the road. Not our ideal scenario and we even thought of moving on, but after a quick call to our Zion-veteran friend Alec (an avid explorer in his own right…check him out on Instagram @troutvibe) he urged us to stick it out, get up early and do some hiking first thing in the am to beat the crowds. He was definitely right…

Due to the masses of people in the park there was no place to stay, but we were quickly introduced to one of the best kept secrets in Utah: BLM Land. BLM stands for “Bureau of Land Management” and this is public land that is maintained by the government. In Utah, it is mostly desert, however if you find BLM land, you are allowed to park and camp assuming you are at least 1/4 mile from any main road. We pushed our Jeep to the limits and ended up sleeping three nights on BLM land outside of Zion. The camping was quite different (no amenities, desert sand, no people, etc, etc), but we didn’t care since we were able to explore Zion and camp for free!

After a nice sandstorm on our first night, we woke up early and conquered the sobering Angel’s Landing Hike for sunrise. This hike is no joke and sadly a few people have fallen to their deaths on this hike. Once you get to the top, you are greeted with an insanely narrow ridge where you need to use chains to continue to the top. It’s a little scary, but as long as you are extremely careful it is totally worth it. The views from the top (particularly at sunrise) were incredible and gave us an expansive look at the main Zion Canyon.

On top of Angel's Landing

On top of Angel's Landing

On Day two, we conquered the famous “Narrows” hike and this is unlike anything we have ever done. There are a few ways to do this hike, but without a permit you need to do what’s called the “Bottom Up” hike. You essentially start at the end of Zion Canyon (the Temple of Sinawava), walk a mile and then get a nice 7-mile hike through the famous Narrows slot canyon. The catch here is that the hike takes place about 90% time in water (i.e., you hike through the Virgin River, basically the whole time). It is wild! Yes, we got very wet and yes the water was not exactly warm; however, getting to explore the canyons, basically alone, was quite an experience!

Hiking The Narrows

Hiking The Narrows

We could have easily spent a week in Zion, but knew we had plenty more to explore. If you could only do one Utah park, it is hard to argue against this one. Our only advice would be to get a camping spot nearby and MAKE SURE you do most of your exploring first thing in the morning before the crowds take over the park.
 

Bryce Canyon

Our next stop was Bryce Canyon and here, once again, campsites were hard to come by. We ended up spending a quick night in a national forest just outside the park and slept in the Jeep (Utah was starting to get down into the 20's at night). We woke up at 4am and headed into the park to catch the sunrise at the main Bryce Amphitheater.

When we arrived at Bryce Point two things became very apparent: #1 was that it was very dark and very cold at the lookout spot. #2 was that a nice fog was rolling in, slightly obstructing our view. Ugh. In any event, the sun eventually rose and started to light up the hundreds of hoodoos below. It was a pretty wild sight and reminded us of seeing the sunrise in The Badlands. Crazy rock structures of all different shapes and sizes were scattered below us and once again, it looked like we had landed on another planet. We then drove the main road to one end of the park and back, taking in the various sights from the lookout points.

Bryce Amphitheater Sunrise

Bryce Amphitheater Sunrise

It was a quick stop, but was definitely very cool to see. We headed into town and got some guidance from a coffee shop that we should drive the scenic I-12 on our way to Moab. This ended up being a great piece of advice because it was one of the coolest drives we have done ever, including driving right through yet another park: Capitol Reef.


I-12 & Capitol Reef

Taking I-12 through Utah is incredible. You drive winding roads through huge sandstone walls, insane death-like valleys and crazy deserts with huge rock formations coming seemingly out of nowhere. Once you join up with I-24 you drive smack through the middle of Capitol Reef National Park. While you could technically drive right through, we ultimately decided to head into the park for a few hours where you could actually drive narrow roads through the steep sandstone walls.

The main events were driving through Capitol Gorge, as well as seeing some authentic petroglyphs on the canyon walls. It was pretty wild. We are not sure you would need to spend more than a day in this park, but if driving through Utah you HAVE to take I-12 and I-24 just to see this park. Its another beautiful stop and great way to break up a drive.